I’ve been to Vietnam four times now – and somehow, it keeps giving me more reasons to come back. This latest trip, we split our time between Da Nang, Hoi An, An Bang Beach and Ho Chi Minh CIty. We’ve already checked off places like Hanoi, Ninh Binh, Hue, Nha Trang and the endless, meandering Mekong Delta on previous visits. We have yet to visit Sapa, Ha Giang, Dong Hoi, Quy Nhon, Dalat and Mui Ne. These places are on our radar for any future visits.
My first experience with Vietnam dates back to 1996 when dial-up internet was the fastest online speed. Nearly 30 years later, the changes are enormous. Few things fascinate me more than witnessing Southeast Asia’s rapid transformation from a budget backpacker jungle to an Instagram-ready digital nomad paradise. It’s wild to think that these SE Asian powerhouses were once dubbed “third world” countries back in the early 90’s. What were once considered ‘developing” countries in the 90’s are now thriving, buzzing destinations full of life and creative young people who have adapted to the new digital world. Watching this evolution firsthand has been one of the most rewarding parts of our extended travels. I am now one of ‘those guys’, when meeting younger fellow travelers, who feels the need to describe what all these destinations were like 30 years ago. Barbie keeps reminding me that nobody wants to hear about Big Doug’s past travel experiences. But, I say fuck em’, the changes have been so radical and it’s my job to enlighten my fellow travelers.
Urban and rural Vietnam offer very different experiences but what makes the country so special is how well the two worlds coexist. Even in Vietnam’s big cities, traditional life quietly persists. There’s grandma selling banh mi sandwiches on the same alley as the sleek coffee cafes accepting Apple Pay directly from my iphone. It’s a mix of Old-World meets New-World. Everyone living together in perfect harmony that you rarely find elsewhere.
I also noticed this cool, unspoken “we’ve got each other’s backs” vibe, much like I saw in Thailand. People look out for each other, daily life flows with a sense of calm and order. It’s a refreshing change from the divisiveness and dumpster fire that is the news cycle back home where the nightly news feels like a reality show. Honestly, given the current state of affairs in our own country, Barbie and I have found peace in being abroad. It’s just easier to watch all these cringe worthy events back home from the other side of the world. We’ll be out here sipping on a fresh coconut on this side of the planet for now. Spending time in our own country just does not sound appealing at this moment in time.
HO CHI MINH CITY –
Ho Chi Minh City is the most populated city in Vietnam and seems like it has more motorbikes than people. The transformation the city has undergone over the past 30 years is nothing short of phenomenal. Move over Bangkok, you’ve got competition. Both are chaotic, fast-paced cities. Ho Chi Minh City now is one of the most livable cities in Southeast Asia. Although Bangkok is more developed and has a better transportation system, Ho Chi Minh possesses a more grounded, laid back relaxed atmosphere.
My interactions with the locals in Ho Chi Minh felt more genuine as they appeared to have a greater desire to interact with westerners. The locals are kind and curious especially toward Westerners. And unlike Bangkok’s international crowds clogging up the sidewalks and malls, HCMC still feels like it belongs to the Vietnamese. If I had to set up shop in any SE Asian city, it would probably be here in HCMC. It’s definitely less intense than Bangkok and doesn’t require deep pockets to afford a decent bowl of noodles. It’s a very walkable city to wander aimlessly and just felt quieter and little more home.
That said, one drawback to life in Vietnam is the unrelenting car and motorbike honking which is part of the soundtrack of daily life. Every single automobile and motorbike driver was provided with a horn and they are all going to fucking use it. It can be annoying being forced to walk in the street when the sidewalks are turned into either motorbike parking lots or what I can only assume is someone’s personal kitchen. Thankfully, HCMC manages its sidewalks better than Da Nanag, and walking here actually feels doable. That being said, the miles long pedestrian promenade running along the long stretch of beach in Da Nang was an amazing place for a walk, jog or bicycle ride.
Watching he motorcycle mayhem all day and night is a full-on spectator sport. Literally, thousands of motorbikes weaving and zipping around all in chaotic harmony. In what appears to be utter pandemonium, yet somehow it all works. Motorbike drivers inexplicably are completely in sync with each other just like a ballet of insanity. It’s mind blowing and truly an amazing sight to witness. Drop that same number of scooters in any U.S. city, you’d max out hospital capacity with mangled bodies from either accidents or road rage.
Nightlife is really pumping in HCMC and outside of Bangkok, this is the go-to nightlife capital of Southeast Asia. Bangkok might still be home base to SE Asia’s most vibrant nightlife, but HCMC has its own seductive swagger with similar entertainment zones throughout the city.
There’s Japan Town, with its Tokyo-esque lounges hidden down a maze of neon-lit alleys. This tucked-away nightlife zone is oddly mixed in with some of the best Japanese food outside of Tokyo with many izakayas and yakiniku joints. Massage parlors are plentiful, most are legit, but many appear to offer a little “extra” relaxation and more than a back rub.
There is also a large selection of nightclubs and live music clubs. If you are looking for something for something more low-key, the hostess bars in the Pasteur Street area is the spot. Home to many low key speakeasy girlie bar lounges where young Vietnamese girls in provocative attire hang out outside the entrances attempting to get your attention. Barbie and I tried to decipher the rules of the game without actually stepping onto the playing field. Word on the street is Viet bar girls are Olympic-level wallet-emptying pros, so consider yourself warned.
And then there’s Bui Vien Street, Saigons most iconic nighttime party street. If Vegas and Khao San Road had a baby, it would grow up to be Bui Vien. The bars are loud, with EDM music blaring. It’s wild and definitely worth a beer and a stroll thru the neon lights to witness the spectacle.
By pure luck, we were in Vietnam during the 50th anniversary of Vietnam’s reunification. The celebrations were so much fun. Never quite seen this kind of camaraderie and joy on the streets and the experience will be etched in our minds forever. We accidentally booked an Airbnb smack-dab in the middle of the action on Le Loi Street. Three floors up with a front-row seat to the festivities thus avoiding the massive crowds. Sometimes, the travel gods really come through.
DA NANG / HOI AN / AN BANG BEACH –
Da Nang continues to rise as a global city attracting the young and laptop-wielding digital nomad crowd. It’s fast becoming a magnet for digital nomads, rivaling spots like Canggu in Bali. The city has a youthful, easygoing chilled beach vibe coupled with an active lifestyle. Cafes, spas and restaurants are everywhere. If you’re a coffee lover, Da Nang delivers and does a unique egg coffee, coconut coffee and vietnamese coffee. Catch Da Nang on a sunny day, you will be rewarded with one of the longest stretches of white sand beach in an urban city you’ll ever see..
In the past, Da Nang used to be more of a pass-through city, with most tourists heading straight to the Old Town of Hoi An, which is a short 30-minute drive south from Da Nang. Although Hoi An is very touristy, it’s still a colorful photogenic place that is ideal for a couple of days of wandering. It’s best to rent a bicycle to explore the lantern-lit streets at night. And, soak in the riverside vibe which really comes alive at night along the river. Just short ride away from Hoi An is the small beach town of An Bang Beach and that is where we decided to park our beach-loving butts. This once sleepy stretch of coast has grown up and is now a developed beach enclave with beach bars and restaurants. An Bang reminded me of those laid-back Thai island beach towns……a perfect spot to kick back.
In Vietnam, the culture is deep, the people are warm, and the chaos is somehow calming. Whether you’re dodging motorbikes in HCMC, sipping coffee in Da Nang, or hanging on An Bang Beach. We’ll keep coming back until we figure out just what’s in that delicious coconut coffee or how to cook up our own bahn xeo, vietnamese crispy pancakes.
Big Doug & Barbie Drop Out of Society 