Canggu (Bali, Indonesia)

Bali:

We finally touched down in Bali after a long but comfortable journey.  If you’re going to fly across the world, this is absolutely the way to do it.

Flashpacking in Style: Cathay Pacific Business Class

Barbie and I managed to snag Cathay Pacific Business Class seats from LA to Bali via Hong Kong for just 55K frequent flyer miles one-way.  Talk about a steal.

The 14-hour leg from LAX to Hong Kong was top-tier service.  We each had our own private, cubicle-like pod with seats that lay completely flat into beds.  It was so comfortable that the flight absolutely flew by.  Before we knew it, we were living it up in the Hong Kong Business Class Lounge—showering off the travel grime and stuffing ourselves with fresh dim sum while waiting for our connection to Denpasar, Bali.

First Stop: Canggu

For our first base camp, we headed straight to Canggu, an up-and-coming beach town in Southern Bali.

Most travelers default to Kuta, Legian or Seminyak just to the south, but we wanted to steer completely clear of that scene.  Kuta, Legian and Seminyak are packed to the gills with hard-partying Australian tourists (Bali is basically their Vegas due to how close it is to mainland Australia). If your goal is to drink until dawn, those are your spots.

But Canggu?  It’s a bit of a different world.  Located just north of the Kuta madness, it has a much more relaxed, bohemian vibe.  The crowd here is mostly surfers and travelers in their 20s and 30s who are just looking to surf and chill on the beach.  Honestly, everyone here looks healthy, stress-free, and incredibly fit.  If you’re a young, single guy, this is your place.

Getting Around: Bikes vs. Scooters

When we first arrived, everyone and their mother was buzzing around on scooters.  Because we were a bit hesitant about the safety of renting them right off the bat, we opted to rent bicycles instead.  It turned out to be a great, active, and safe way to explore the local beaches.

⚠️ Update 2026: The Scooter Ban is Official

Flash forward 10 years and my opinion on driving these scooters around Southeast Asia has completely flipped. We will never rent them again.

These days, the streets are flooded with way too many tourists who don’t have a proper motorcycle license and have no idea how to handle a bike. I’ve seen an inordinate number of people walking around town covered in white medical bandages from nasty motorbike accidents. It’s just not worth the risk. Stick to bicycles, walking, or hiring a driver.

The Canggu Conundrum

If you’re heading to Bali expecting a highly exotic, culturally diverse, peaceful tropical haven… let me stop you right there. You have the wrong expectation.

These days, Canggu has morphed into the social epicenter of Bali’s digital nomad and influencer scene.  It’s a bustling, chaotic hub of beachfront coworking spaces, trendy cafes, co-living compounds, and massive, noisy beach clubs.  If your goal is to hang your hat where you can network with fellow laptop entrepreneurs, this is the place to be.

But if you want authentic Balinese culture, quiet streets, and pristine empty beaches?  You’re going to think Canggu absolutely sucks.

What the “New” Canggu is All About

Make no mistake, the order of business here for the modern crowd is working remotely, networking, and getting in shape.

  • The Fitness & Food Obsession: Canggu is packed to the gills with elite fitness centers, yoga studios, and gyms. The daily ritual for the young-gun nomads is working up a sweat and then refueling on acai and smoothie bowls.  Healthy eating is a religion here.
  • The Coworking Scene: If you want to meet people with a laptop, you’ll be spoiled for choice. The town is filled with modern coliving and coworking spaces designed for the remote lifestyle.
  • A Highly Westernized Bubble: Don’t be fooled into expecting a true native Balinese experience. This area is extremely westernized. For many visitors, Canggu is actually a major turn-off—it’s way too busy, and unless you want to hang out in a gym, a cafe, or a very ordinary beach, there’s not much else to do.  Some nomads actually end up fleeing to quieter towns like Ubud & Amed just to get some peace and focus.  However, Ubud is quite busy as well.

Paradise Paved: What We Lost

When I first visited this area of Bali about ten years ago, the entire place was a stunning landscape of vibrant, green rice fields.  It was a true Balinese gem.

But I guess growing rice doesn’t generate nearly as much cash as paving over the landscape with condos, shops, and assorted other shit.  Thanks to constant, relentless building, the peace, charm, and nature you’d expect from Bali are largely gone.

The Bottom Line

Canggu is a tale of two cities.

If you are looking for world-class cafes, elite gyms, modern villas, and a relentless party and networking scene, it still absolutely delivers.  But the soul of the old hipster surf village is long gone. If that hyper-modern, fast-paced bubble is what you want out of your Balinese experience, so be it—just don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Exploring the Beaches

We spent our days cruising between three main spots, though you can already see the rice fields slowly being concreted over by new villas and resorts.  The beaches are black sand, often trashed with rubbish, and honestly pretty mediocre.  (Pro tip: if you want actually nice beaches, skip this and head to the Bukit Peninsula).

1. Canggu Beach (Batu Bolong)

  • Nothing really nothing spectacular. It’s packed with surfers, features a lively beach bar, and you can get a great full-body beach massage for just $5 an hour.

2. Echo Beach (Batu Mejan) & Pererenan Beach

  • The Vibe: A bohemian hangout with a laid-back feel. The beachfront is lined with outdoor warungs (local restaurants) where you can grab a cheap, fresh bite. Pererenan is the quietest of the bunch, though the developers are already moving in.
  • Loose Stools Index: 10/10
    We just got here, so the stomachs are holding strong. So far, so good!

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