Chiang Mai (Thailand)

Chiang Mai: 

Big city life and over-the-top energy in Bangkok was an absolute blast, but getting off the plane and seeing green fields and a relaxed pace of life was exactly what Barbie and I needed.  We were non-stop in the thick of the Bangkok action for six straight days, and now it’s time to cool out in Chiang Mai and Northern Thailand.  The peaceful, serene atmosphere here has been a real nice change to help us recharge our batteries.  Now I completely see why so many digital nomads make Chiang Mai their home base and why so many expats choose to retire here.  The only thing missing is the ocean.

Chiang Mai is Thailand’s second-largest city, but it is a world away from Bangkok.  The city has quite a cosmopolitan feel when compared to other northern Thai provinces, and it boasts a lively entertainment scene.  The nightlife is more mellow than Bangkok, but it’s packed with live music, expat pubs, trendy riverside bars, and college student hangouts (thanks to the big, prestigious Chiang Mai University nearby).  There is also a massive backpacker and flashpacker scene here.  It’s not like the chaotic craziness of Khao San Road in Bangkok; it’s a lot more laid-back, but still incredibly vibrant.

The Ultimate Khao Soi Championship 

Chiang Mai is world-famous for Khao Soi, a legendary Northern Thai coconut curry noodle dish. There is an intense, unspoken competition between the local cafes, street vendors, night markets, and even upmarket restaurants on who makes the absolute best bowl.  I first tried it in Las Vegas before our departure and just loved it.  From that point on, I knew I was going to jump right in upon arrival in Chiang Mai and declare myself an official judge.  Think of it like the fierce battle in Philadelphia over who makes the best cheesesteak.

Armed with a curated list of supposedly the five best Khao Soi joints in town, I set out to try them all and form a definitive opinion.  Because let’s face it: once you establish an opinion, you must puff up your chest and boldly declare a winner.  Hedging is for wimps.

So, with zero hesitation, the winner is Khao Soi Mae Sai.  They serve up the best fu*king Khao Soi in Chiang Mai.  It is a total hole-in-the-wall joint filled with locals and savvy flashpackers like us who possess the unique skill of sniffing out these hidden gems.  If you prefer a fancier place to slurp and inhale your curry noodles rather than sweating your butt off in a crowded local spot, check out Dash Teak House located in the Old City.

If you are lucky enough to see Khao Soi on the menu at your local Thai restaurant back home, I highly encourage you to order it.  I doubt they will make it nearly as good as the indigenous Chiang Mai version, but hey, maybe you’ll get lucky.

Update 2025:  To assist fellow travelers, the following is a narrowed down (updated) list of some of the top Khao Soi places where you can conduct your own Khao Soi Challenge.  I may be missing some but I believe the below is a comprehensive list.

Khao Soi Khun Yai
Khao Soi Mae Sai
Dash Teak House
Mae Sai Khao Soy
Khao-So-I
Khao Soi Samerjai
Khao Soi Lamduan Fa Ham 
Khao Soi Nimman
Khao Soi Lamduan 
Khao Soi Islam Noodles
Khao Soi Mae Manee
Bualoy Restaurant

The Best Tasting Fish

Speaking of hidden gems, we stumbled upon another spectacular hole-in-the-wall fish joint that fortunately happened to be located directly across the street from our guesthouse: Lert-Ros.

You may ask how much better than “great” a fresh whole fish can possibly taste.  Well, this place takes it to another ludicrous level.  They slow-cook and heavily season the whole fish outside all day on a homemade charcoal grill, and the result is simply unreal.  It is hands-down the best-tasting fish on this entire planet earth. END OF DISCUSSION!

Update 2026:  On our return visit in 2025, my favorite fish joint (Lert-Ros) was sadly not open.  I am not sure if this was just a temporary closure, so go check it out yourself.

(Check out my videos below of the master chef slow-cooking these beauties during the day, and then serving up the finished masterpieces at night.)

Trekking, Elephants, and Tourist Traps

Chiang Mai serves as the ultimate base for hill-tribe trekking, which is one of the most popular activities here.  In my opinion, these treks have become much more touristy and watered down compared to when I did my first trek 20 years ago.  I seriously question their authenticity now, so Barbie and I decided to skip it entirely.  We’ll save our moolah for more Khao Soi instead.

Another massive draw is visiting one of the Elephant Conservation Camps.  However, you really need to do your research before booking, as you should only visit sanctuaries where riding the elephants is strictly prohibited.  You should never, under any circumstances, consider chair-riding an elephant—that is a huge, absolute NO-NO.

Basically, you attend one of these ethical camps and adopt an elephant for the day.  What does that entail?  You bathe the big dude, feed the big dude, chill with the big dude, and play with the big dude.  These elephants were rescued from unsavory characters who abused them, and thankfully they’ve been placed in safe, select sanctuaries in the Northern Thailand jungle.  You can even opt to stay on as a volunteer to look after them for an extended period if that toots your horn.

A Strong Testimonial for Gold Bond Powder

Regarding the climate here in Chiang Mai—for a place located up north that should be cooler, I can safely say it is hot as crap.  We are used to intense heat after living in Las Vegas for 20 years, but the blazing sun coupled with the heavy tropical humidity is enough to fry your brain.  Luckily, our guesthouse had an awesome pool to cool out at.  Bangkok was also sweltering, but fortunately, we got a bit of relief from cloud cover during our days there.

If any of you have ever used Gold Bond powder to combat oppressive heat and humidity, you will always vividly recall your first experience sprinkling that stuff on your tushie.  Well, I finally introduced Barbie to my personal stash of Gold Bond for her very first taste of the fine stuff.  After letting the icy magic settle in, I asked her how she liked it.

She replied, “It’s great. It’s like putting a Peppermint Pattie up your ass.”

Now that sounds refreshing, doesn’t it?  Just another glowing endorsement for Gold Bond.

Where to Set Up Shop: The Old City

If you’re planning a trip, the Old City is one of the better areas to stay.  It is more relaxing to base yourself inside the ancient moat but the super relaxed streets of years past are beginning to fade.

The area is completely saturated with real cool, funky, health-focused cafes.  And believe me, you will find yourself constantly chilling in these spots, sipping fresh frozen fruit shakes and watching the world go by just because it is so damn hot.  It’s also where most of the backpackers and flashpackers set up shop, so you know it’s hip.

Chiang Mai is incredibly visually stimulating, with stunning Wats (temples) around every single corner and action on every street.  The locals do a phenomenal job catering to travelers.  There are tons of street markets and night fairs to feast at all day and night, with many going on at the exact same time.  This town offers some of the best eating in Northern Thailand—you definitely won’t go hungry here.

Massage parlors are everywhere, and I mean everywhere.  When walking down the street, I’m beginning to wonder if anyone can just say a regular “Hello” without following it up with, “Massage, Mister-ka?”

But honestly, how can you possibly dislike a place when just about every other storefront has a top-tier, $6-an-hour massage on offer?  Basically, if you don’t like to eat amazing food, chill in funky cafes sipping fresh fruit shakes, or get your feet and back rubbed, then you probably shouldn’t come to Chiang Mai.  For us, it’s a solid place to hunker down.  Good people, great food, and zero hassles.

It is now time to split and head further north to the remote hippie town of Pai.

Loose Stools Index: 7

Remain highly pleased with my bowel movements. I attribute this flawless run to our multiple sessions at the charcoal fish joint, which must have provided a bonding-like effect.  My mother always did tell me to eat my fish.

Thru the Binocs

One major observation I’ve noticed during our current travels is the complete lack of intrigue with Westerners by local children and adults compared to 20 years ago.  I’m guessing it’s because the world is so interconnected now with widespread internet, 24-hour TV news, and rapid technology advancements.

I distinctly recall back in the day, Barbie and I would visit small, remote villages in Southeast Asia and the kids would run around us with pure excitement just to see a Western face.  We used to bring pens and pencils to give away, and the kids would happily fight over them.  They would get so incredibly excited just seeing their own image on our digital camera screen.

Fast forward to today… they couldn’t care less about seeing a Westerner, and a pen giveaway is basically meaningless to them.  Probably the only way to get a kid’s attention now is by handing over the latest shiny iPhone loaded up with the newest video games.  The old-school curiosity has basically disappeared.  How times have changed.