Tokyo:

We officially returned to Tokyo for another nine nights to close out our time in the land of the rising sun.  This wraps up five solid weeks of flashpacking around Japan, with over two weeks dedicated entirely to Tokyo.

Many travelers mistake Tokyo for a quick three-day stop on their itinerary.  Let me tell you right now: that is nowhere near enough time to take in all the good stuff this sprawling metropolis has on tap—especially if you want to experience the quieter, low-rise neighborhoods outside the city center that give you a real taste of local life.  To effectively cover the highlights without burning out, you need a solid two weeks.

In my last post, I articulated why Tokyo’s high-tech toilets are an absolute pleasure for taking care of business.  For this post, we are focusing on the neighborhoods, street life and the local hacks.

Moving Around the Tokyo

Home to more than 13 million people, Tokyo is a frenetic, endlessly fascinating concrete jungle.  It’s a dream city for walking, and believe it or not, it’s incredibly safe to ride a bicycle around. I wouldn’t have believed it until I saw it myself, but there are inexplicably few cars on the road.

Taxis here are very expensive, but they are completely unnecessary because the train system is the most efficient and pleasurable transit network on earth.  That said, Barbie and I did hail a cab a handful of times just for the sheer coolness of taking a taxi ride.  The cabs look like they rolled straight out of a 1950s film set, and the doors open and close automatically, which makes the whole experience bizarre.

The best part?  Tokyo cab drivers are true gentlemen.  They will never rip you off, and they take you exactly where you need to go without any bullshit games—a truly unique concept in a world filled with an oversupply of dirtbag taxi drivers.

Choosing the Right Base

During our first nine days in the city, we split our time between the neon madness of Shinjuku and the hipster streets of Shimokitazawa.  For this second stint, we booked an Airbnb in the residential, upscale neighborhood of Ebisu, right next to Shibuya.  The Airbnb and neighborhood was the perfect, quiet retreat to escape to after a long day of walking through Tokyo’s visual chaos.

Think of Tokyo like Manhattan.  If you’re spending extended time in New York, you’re better off staying in different areas—like SoHo, Greenwich Village, and the Upper West Side—to get a true taste of the different neighborhood vibes.  Tokyo is exactly the same.

Breaking Down the Central Neighborhoods

Shinjuku

Shinjuku has it all and completely captures the modern essence of Tokyo.  Ever since I watched Lost in Translation, I knew I had to experience this place for myself—the blinding neon lights, the deafening pachinko parlors, the masses of people, and the crazy nightlife.

• Kabukicho & Golden Gai: We spent hours wandering Kabukicho, the local nightlife district packed with karaoke bars and love hotels.  Right next door is Golden Gai, a network of ramshackle alleys filled with hundreds of tiny drinking dens—some so small they only seat about six people.  They are some of the strangest, quirkiest themed bars I’ve ever laid eyes on.

• The Basement Food Hall Hack: It was during our first five nights here that I made a monumental discovery: all the massive Japanese department stores have the most kickass food courts hidden in their basements.  The food halls at Isetan and Takashimaya are two awesome places to munch out on high-end grub.

• Omoide Yokocho (Piss Alley): A colorful, narrow laneway that is an absolute must-visit for its lively scene and unique, smoky food joints.

• Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden: If you need a massive, pristine green space to take a breather, this is one of Tokyo’s finest parks.

Shibuya

To sum up Shibuya: non-stop action 24/7.  This area attracts the youth culture, where local teens gather in futuristic clothes and colorful hair.  It really comes alive at night, especially around the iconic Shibuya Crossing.

Big Doug Food Alert: Shibuya is home to one of our absolute favorite hole-in-the-wall restaurants, Gyukatsu Motomura. They serve a incredibly unique, juicy Japanese beef katsu that arrives partially cooked. You finish it off yourself to your exact liking on a mini sizzling stone grill right in front of you. The place only seats about 10 people, so you have to perfectly time your visit between lunch and dinner to avoid massive lines. (There’s also a location in Shinjuku we hit up).

Other lively spots to wander here: Center Gai, Spain-zaka Slope, Love Hotel Alley, and Nonbei Yokocho.

Harajuku

A small neighborhood within Shibuya, Harajuku is world-famous as the epicenter of Tokyo’s gothic, punk, and subculture fashion scenes.  Youths from all over Japan come to shop the specialty and secondhand vintage stores lining the colorful Takeshita Street.

On Sundays, the place to be is Yoyogi Park for some epic people-watching.  It’s a massive park perfect for a walk, a picnic, or just laying on the grass to soak up the sun while watching street entertainers perform.  The popular Meiji Jingu Shrine is also tucked inside the park grounds and is well worth checking out.

Omotesando

This upscale fashion district sits right next to Harajuku.  The main drag, Omotesando Avenue, is often called Tokyo’s Champs-Élysées, lined with chic shops and international luxury brands. J ust off the main drag is Cat Street—a cool, pedestrian-friendly avenue packed with boutiques and a great coffee joint called The Roastery.  Following Cat Street will lead you right back into the heart of Shibuya.

Asakusa

This area gives you a taste of old-school Tokyo.  The main draw here is the historic Senso-ji Temple.  The bustling approach street, Nakamise-dori, is lined with dozens of traditional shops and food stalls selling excellent local snacks.

For my fellow degenerates, make a detour to WINS Off-Track Betting (near Hatsune Koji).  It’s renowned for hordes of local horseracing fans drinking out on the street, drinking beers, and betting on the ponies.

 

Ebisu

As I mentioned, we hunkered down here for nine nights in our favorite Airbnb.  Being the most un-trendy and un-fashionable guy on the planet, I surprisingly loved the upscale, relaxed, neighborhood feel of this area.  It’s a massive favorite for locals and expats, with incredible food options.  Ebisu Yokocho was one of our absolute favorite food alleys in the entire city, and Yebisu Garden Place was our daily go-to spot for high-quality, prepared supermarket meals.

Akihabara

Electric Town.  This is the epicenter of electronics, gadget shops, and massive gaming arcades.  I was one of the fortunate kids who actually had a vintage pachinko machine in our house growing up, so I knew what the game was about—but nothing prepares you for the real deal in Tokyo. Walking into a multi-story arcade delivers a deafening roar of millions of metal marbles shooting and clanging through rows of machines.  It’s not a kids’ game either; seeing grown adults fully locked into these machines is a total “WTF” Tokyo moment.

Ginza

The Fifth Avenue of Tokyo.  It’s packed with luxury shopping and is best visited on weekends when they shut down the main streets to cars and turn it into a massive pedestrian zone.

The famous Tsukiji Outer Market is nearby and well worth exploring in the morning.  You can try to wake up for the famous 4:00 AM tuna auction if you’re lucky enough to score a rare slot, but Barbie and I chose to sleep in and visit a bit later.  The market area is bursting with fresh seafood and killer sushi joints.  While Sushi Dai is the famous tourist magnet, the lines are brutal.  We opted for Sushi Zanmai instead, and it was absolutely first-rate.

Roppongi & Ikebukuro

• Roppongi: Known almost exclusively for its massive nightlife and nightclub scene.  Nowadays, Big Doug is usually fast asleep by the time clubs get going, so this was an easy skip for us.

• Ikebukuro: Generally skippable.  However, if you do find yourself passing through the station, look for a shop called Ringo.  They sell the most kickass, hand-held apple custard pies.  We saw a massive queue of locals waiting for them, so we did the only logical thing you can do in Japan: we got our asses in line. Best decision ever.

 

Going Off the Beaten Path: The Low-Rise Neighborhoods

If you want to escape the concrete jungle and catch a glimpse of a slower, traditional way of life, you have to venture just outside the central tourist rings.

Kamakura

When you need a change of pace from the neon-lit, frenetic streets, head an hour south to the coastal town of Kamakura—often called the “Kyoto of Eastern Japan.”

As budget-savvy flashpackers, Barbie and I noticed we had two days left of unlimited travel on our 21-day JR Train Passes.  Naturally, we wanted to squeeze out every drop of value before they expired.  We hopped the train down to Kamakura and immediately felt the relaxed, coastal energy. Time feels like it stands still here.

The town gets busy with weekend day-trippers from Tokyo during the summer.  Yuigahama Beach is right there if you want a quick dip on a hot day, but honestly, the beach itself is a big nothing.  The real action is walking down Komachi-dori Street, which is lined with unique shops and a shitload of traditional snack stalls. vThe street leads directly to the beautiful Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu Shrine.  If you dig temples, Hase-dera and Kotoku-in (where you can hang out with the famous Great Buddha) are right around the corner.

Koenji

Just a few minutes’ train ride west of Shinjuku sits Koenji.  It’s part of Suginami City, which includes smaller local pockets like Asagaya and Ogikubo, but Koenji is easily the coolest hood of the bunch.

We loved spending a day wandering this ultra-laid-back area.  It has a vibrant, tight-knit small-town community feel with tons of cheap eateries, music clubs, and secondhand vintage shops.  It felt very similar to Shimokitazawa—which was one of our favorite bases in Tokyo.

While exploring, we stumbled into Hattifnatt Koenji—the most trippy, strangest little cafe where you literally feel like a kid exploring a fairytale treehouse.  Sipping iced coffee while children’s music plays in a tiny wooden loft was bizarre, but we absolutely loved it.

Shimokitazawa

We spent our first week based here and fell totally in love with this bohemian hipster enclave.  It is the ultimate retreat from the frantic city center.  Even though it’s only a five-minute train ride from Shibuya, it feels like a world away.  The neighborhood is a maze of narrow, pedestrian lanes packed with indie coffee shops, vintage clothing stores, hole-in-the-wall eateries, and old-school vinyl record stores.  It’s unlike anywhere else in Tokyo.

Kichijoji

We took the train out here for the sole purpose of checking out Harmonica Alley—a dense grid of narrow alleys packed with hundreds of tiny shops, standing bars, and izakayas that resemble the air holes of a harmonica.

Pro-tip: arrive late in the evening.  We made the mistake of getting there a bit too early before the bars fully opened up, leaving us a little unimpressed.  It’s definitely an evening destination.

(Note: Neighborhoods like Jiyugaoka we didn’t manage to hit, and Kawagoe is completely skippable).

Tokyo’s Top Yokochos (Food Alleys)

If you are cool with eating world-class food in incredibly tight quarters, rubbing shoulders with the locals, and sitting on a stool in a joint that fits less than a dozen people, you have to track down Tokyo’s famous yokochos.

These alleyways represent the less sterile, down-to-earth side of Tokyo’s food scene.  They are high-energy, incredibly fun, and the formula is perfect: small tasty plates and meat skewers (yakitori) washed down with cold beer and highballs.  It’s the ultimate setup to make new local drinking buddies.  Just be ready to use some enthusiastic sign language and a big smile, because chances are nobody will speak a lick of English.

Here are the spots we personally tested:

• Ebisu Yokocho (Ebisu): We absolutely loved this lively, indoor food alley.  It’s a non-stop strip of small food and booze stalls with an electric atmosphere.

• Omoide Yokocho / Piss Alley (Shinjuku): This spot holds a special place in our hearts because it was the first one we saw when we arrived.  It is oozing with old-school atmosphere

• Daiichi Ichiba & Gado-shita (Koenji): For the true value players, these two spots (one tucked away, one running right under the train tracks) offer cheap, incredible izakaya bites. They open around 6:00 PM.

• Ameyoko Market (Ueno): A chaotic, vibrant street market running alongside Ueno Station where vendors hawk everything from seafood to clothes.

• Nonbei Yokocho / Drunkard’s Alley (Shibuya): Tucked right next to the busiest station in the world, this alleyway features miniature bars that literally only fit 4 or 5 people at a time. It’s more of a heavy drinking scene with small bites rather than a massive food hall.

• Golden Gai (Shinjuku): A legendary collection of tight alleys packed with a few hundred tiny drinking dens right on the edge of the nightlife district. It’s an awesome place to wander and watch people shoot the shit.

Thru the Binocs: My Final Take on Japan

Barbie and I completely fell in love with this country. Japan has absolutely everything—from zen gardens, castles, and historic shrines to hyper-modern, action-packed cities.  Every single day you step out of your door, an eye-popping adventure is waiting for you.

If you’re a travel newbie who feels a bit intimidated by the thought of tackling Asia, Japan is the ultimate starting point.  It is insanely organized, incredibly clean, and easily the most user-friendly country to travel around in the entire region—if not the world.

Japanese Culture

• True Efficiency: The Japanese people march to the absolute beat of their own drummer, and everything in daily life functions with military precision.

• Genuine Kindness: The hospitality is unmatched. Whether someone is selling you high-end luxury goods or simply ringing up a bottle of water at a 7-Eleven, you are greeted with the most genuine, beautiful smile —all I could do was smile right back.

• Unmatched Honesty: The level of respect here is mind-blowing. We regularly watched locals in crowded cafes leave their valuables—iPhones, laptops, purses—fully exposed on the table while they walked away to use the restroom. Try that trick back home and see how fast your gear evaporates!

• The Art of the Queue: The Japanese know how to line up. They form calm, efficient lines for everything, and they move fast. My golden rule quickly became: if I see a line in front of a restaurant, it’s my cue to get my impatient ass in line with the locals.

• Vending Machine Paradise: They are easily the most hydrated population on earth. There are millions of pristine vending machines selling hot and cold green teas, coffees, and energy drinks on every single street corner and train platform. And the best part? Every single one of them works perfectly without stealing your moolah.

The Downside (Let’s Be Real)

No destination is perfect. Here is what you need to prepare for:

• The Language Barrier: For such a technologically advanced nation, surprisingly little English is spoken here compared to the rest of Asia. This means you won’t be able to read drug store labels, call businesses for quick info, or always know what you’re buying at the supermarket. (Plus, tourist SIM cards are data-only, so no voice calls). Luckily, the locals are so accommodating that we got by perfectly using body language, Google Translate, and the classic international technique of pointing at stuff.

• Earthquake Tremors: Minor tremors are a regular occurrence. They are harmless, but it’s definitely a unique feeling to experience your Airbnb bed gently swaying in the middle of the night.

• The Premium on Space: Hotel rooms and apartments are notoriously tiny in major Japanese cities. To combat this, we strictly booked Airbnbs with small kitchens. It gave us way more room to breathe, offered awesome value compared to traditional hotels, and let us admire the creative space-saving designs the Japanese have mastered.

Our time in Japan is officially up. Next up, we are boarding a flight back to Australia to hunt down the world-class beaches of the Gold Coast and Sunshine Coast.