Utrecht (Netherlands)

Utrecht: An Alternative Dutch Base

We have officially departed the Southern Hemisphere summer in Australia and New Zealand.  As we continue on with this round-the-world journey, we’ve crossed back over to the Northern Hemisphere with one sole mission: following the sun around the globe.

Our entire travel itinerary was purposefully planned to completely dodge the winter cold in favor of constant warmth.  We only packed shorts and summer clothes in our Osprey convertible wheeled backpacks, so we were fully committed to this sun-chasing strategy—otherwise, we’d freeze our asses off.

With summer fast approaching in Europe, that’s exactly the direction us Flashpackers headed.  Our first European pit stop was a return visit to the Netherlands.

Our Strategy: Serenity over Chaos

On our previous month-long stint in Holland, we split our time between Amsterdam and Rotterdam, using the big cities as our base.  From there, we took the trains to explore some really cool smaller Dutch cities like Haarlem, Delft, Utrecht, Zaanse Schans, The Hague, and Scheveningen.  We enjoyed each of these spots, but our absolute favorite of the bunch was Utrecht. It immediately stood out as a haven for travelers looking to get off the beaten path and soak up a genuine small-town vibe.

One of the best parts about having over four years of non-stop travel under our belts is that it enables us to cherry-pick our favorite locations—places we previously just passed through for a day—and return to hunker down longer-term.

Utrecht is essentially a “mini” version of Amsterdam.  It has the same picturesque canals and a lifestyle where bicycles are the absolute primary mode of transportation.  The car-free pedestrian zone in the center of town is beautiful, though you still have to constantly watch your ass so you don’t get taken out by a local zipping past on a bike.

Don get me wrong, we absolutely loved the vibrancy and non-stop action of Amsterdam.  But for this return trip, we opted for the less crowded, laid-back lifestyle of Utrecht.  It represents what the real Netherlands is all about.

Our 10-day stay was simple perfection. Honestly, Utrecht reminded me of a quaint ski village—with the only missing ingredient being the snow.

Living Like Locals

We settled into an amazing Airbnb and immediately started living right alongside the locals.  Our hosts hooked us up with bicycles, which we put to serious use every single day, cruising along the canals and exploring every corner of the city.

Our daily routine was tough to beat: bike to a quaint cafe, take a little mental health break in a local coffeeshop for a spliff, and then retreat to one of the city’s sweeping green parks.

Now, while Amsterdam is packed with over 150 coffeeshops, Utrecht only has about six that we could find.  We made a daily pilgrimage to Coffeeshop Andersom, which was conveniently located smack in the center of town on a gorgeous canal lined with ultra-chill European cafes.

But our absolute favorite spot was The Cultureboat. This is a massive wooden boat permanently docked right on the canal waters.  Hanging out on a boat that is gently swaying on the water added a seriously cool element to the whole “trip.”

The Park Circuit

Every afternoon, we rode our bikes to the green spaces to hang out with the Dutch locals.  Winters are brutal and incredibly long in the Netherlands, so the second that spring sun pokes its head out, the locals flock outside to bike, pack the outdoor cafes, and lounge in the grass.

• Griftpark: Located right down the block from The Cultureboat, this park features a cool ommunity animal farm.  It was a great place to hang out with some of the healthiest-looking goats, cows, sheep, and chickens I’ve ever seen.  This place was Flashpacking Barbie’s little animal haven and her favorite spot to get loved up by the locals.  The animals were incredibly relaxed and lived in the cleanest setting—they are seriously looked after.  It was a total contrast to New Zealand and Australia, where you couldn’t get within ten feet of a sheep because they were scared shitless of humans.  Rightfully so, because those Southern Hemisphere sheep somehow knew the humans were only after their wool and chops.
• Wilhelmina Park: Since our Airbnb was right down the street, we spent the majority of our relaxing downtime right here.
• Rhijnauwen Park: A short, beautiful bike ride just outside of town brings you to this sweeping park.  The ultimate reward for making the ride is the Theehuis Rhijnauwen, situated in a relaxed, grassy outdoor setting.  This teahouse serves up what is arguably the best-tasting apple pie with whipped cream on planet earth.  Pair that apple pie with their wide variety of mouth-watering Dutch pancakes, and you will be completely good to go.

The Utrecht Food Map

We did our fair share of eating during our 10 days. If you’re heading to Utrecht, make sure to hit these spots:

Our Casual Lunch & Coffee Hits

• Vis ’n Friet: Hands down the best fish and chips in town.
• Saowapa: Ultra-casual Thai food.
• Kimmade Vietnamese: Excellent, authentic Vietnamese street food flavors.
• The Streetfood Club: A cool space with great food.
• Spaghetteria: fresh Italian pasta dishes.
• Parkcafe Buiten: Great breakfast spot right by Wilhelmina Park.
• Bond & Smolders: A bakery with an awesome apple tart.
• Talud9: A cool coffee spot.
• Also check out: De Ontdekking and De Markt.

The “Next Time” Hit List

These spots were highly recommended but we didn’t have the time to make it happen.

• Anan Saigon Streetfood
• Loetje
• Bastacosi (Pizza)
• Sirtaki (Greek)
• Cerveceria Blvd. (Tapas)
• Lebowski
• Watertoren Utrecht (Higher-end dining inside an old water tower)

The Verdict

Barbie and I both fell in love with our time in Utrecht.  In my book, it is a vastly superior alternative to basing yourself in the frenzied, tourist-heavy atmosphere of Amsterdam.

However, I can see the writing on the wall. Just like every other hidden gem we’ve uncovered on our travels, it’s only a matter of time before this obscure, under-the-radar Dutch city gets fully discovered by the masses.  More tourist crowds will inevitably roll in, but I’m holding out hope that it can retain its unique charm and stay a kept secret in the Netherlands.

The best part about Utrecht is its proximity to the capital.  You are only a short, super-efficient 30-minute train ride away from the big city action.  So take it from a pro traveler: base yourself in serenity, and day-trip to the chaos.