Morocco

Morocco: Sizzling Heat, and Beautiful Chaos

Morocco marks a milestone for us: our very first time stepping foot on the African continent.  When Barbie and I were planning this leg of our round-the-world journey, we were hunting for a destination with a bit of an edge—somewhere that felt far away, raw, and exotic.  Morocco delivered on all fronts and completely exceeded our expectations.

Before we left, a few people raised their eyebrows.  A couple of long-term flashpackers heading completely off the package-tour grid into a major Muslim country?  “Is it safe?”

Let me tell you: we covered a massive chunk of this country entirely on our own.  At no point during our road trip did we feel even remotely threatened.  We were greeted with nothing but smiles and genuine kindness.  Honestly, I felt more at ease cruising through Morocco than I do in my own country.  Skipping a trip here out of fear is just plain foolish.

I’ll admit, I had my guard up a bit higher than usual before landing.  But I remember having that exact same nervous gut feeling right before we spent a month in Myanmar, and that turned out to be one of our favorite countries.  I trusted my experience, knowing that once we checked into our Marrakech riad, everything would fall into place.  After years on the road, it’s became universally obvious: humans share way more common values than differences.

The Ramadan Factor

We intentionally chose to visit during Ramadan.  While a lot of travelers balk at visiting during the holy month because they anticipate a few inconveniences, putting off your plans is a mistake.  Just like being in Israel during the Jewish holidays, it’s a deeply spiritual time.  You can literally feel the electricity and excitement in the air.  Plus, I absolutely loved eating all the special holiday foods prepared this time of year that you can’t find anywhere else.

The Art of the Slow Road Trip

Morocco turned out to be one of the greatest road trips of our journey.  The place is just oozing with colors, romance, and exotic vibes.  Because we have no time constraints, we spent a full seven weeks exploring, clocking 1,380 miles in our rental car.

Rushing through this country on a tight one- or two-week holiday trying to cross off every single site is a massive mistake.  You might think you’re seeing more, but you’ll have zero depth of experience. My philosophy has always been that when you rush around, you actually see less.  The real magic of travel lies in blending in with the locals and going about your day with absolutely no set plans.  Slow down, take your time, and just watch life happen around you.  Those were our absolute best moments.

Our route through the country looked like this: Marrakech – Essaouira – Tamraght – Tiznit – Mirleft Beach – Taliouine – Skoura – Todgha Gorge – Erg Chebbi (Sahara Desert) – Dades Gorge – Ouarzazate – Tizi n’ Tichka Pass – Marrakech – Fes

Marrakech: 

We spent our first eight nights acclimating to the frenzied local lifestyle of Marrakech.  While that’s a few more days than a normal tourist needs, those extra days allowed us to see the city at a relaxed flashpacker pace.

Absolute chaos is the only way to describe it.  But that’s exactly why you go.  The initial culture shock when you weave through the labyrinth of the ancient medina is intense.  Walking these narrow alleys is basically an extreme adrenaline sport—you are constantly dodging speeding scooters, bicycles, donkey carts, horses, tuk-tuks, and barking hustlers in spaces so tight you won’t believe it until you see it.  Our favorite daily activity was just getting utterly lost in the maze, soaking up the sensory overload of sounds, smells, and colors.  You have to completely abandon any Western notions of personal space.

Stepping into the main square, Jemaa el-Fna, feels completely magical and intriguing.  This place is definitely not for the timid.  It forces you completely out of your comfort zone.  It’s aggressive, exciting, aggravating, and intimidating all at once.

Haggling is an everyday experience, and the touts are world-class “closers” who can be rabidly persistent.  I can totally see why some tourists find Marrakech completely exhausting.  It’s a city you have to experience to truly understand.  It’s beautiful chaos.  Once you learn to just roll with it, you’ll love the ride.

Riad Living vs. Modern Hotels

In my opinion, Marrakech doesn’t actually have many “must-see” sights, and that didn’t bother us one bit.  We loved not having the burden of planning a single thing.  Our days were effortlessly filled with eating at some of the most amazing restaurants in all our travels, wandering the markets, and—my absolute favorite—chillaxing on the daybeds of our airy riad rooftop lounge.

We opted to stay in a traditional riad deep inside the walled medina so we could feel the true pulse of the city day and night.  A riad is a multi-level building centered around an open-air courtyard. Staying in one is an absolute must for an authentic experience.  If you stay in a modern, resort-style hotel outside the old city walls, you are short-changing yourself.  We loved the riad lifestyle so much it became our default accommodation for the rest of our seven weeks in Morocco.

Why You Need a Rental Car

A lot of travelers get intimidated by the logistics of Morocco and default to booking a rigid guided tour.  After decades of global travel, Barbie and I are firmly anti-tour unless it’s completely unavoidable.  There was no way we weren’t tackling this country on our own terms.

While you can technically get around using public transit or day tours, nothing compares to navigating at your own pace.  Having our own rental car allowed us to design our own route, pull over whenever something caught our eye, dive off the beaten path, and form deeper connection with the country.

Our Roadtrip:

1. Essaouira: 

We kicked off the driving portion of the trip by heading straight to Morocco’s coastal, bohemian heart.  With over 300 days of sunshine a year, a laid-back attitude, and a massive sandy beach, Essaouira is a big attraction for surfers, backpackers, and old-school hippies.

Because of the massive gusts of wind blasting off the Atlantic, it is significantly cooler than Marrakech.  It is windy as shit in Essaouira.  You can attempt to sunbathe on the beach if you don’t mind being violently sandblasted, but most people stick to windsurfing.  Essaouira was a fantastic, relaxed escape from all the wackiness of Marrakech.  There aren’t many traditional “sights,” but we easily filled four nights wandering the quiet medina and eating at tiny, atmospheric cafes tucked away in hidden alleyways.

2. Tamraght & Agadir: 

If you want to surf, Tamraght is a solid choice.  If you want to lounge on a pristine, white-sand beach with swaying palms while sipping piña coladas, go somewhere else.  The coast here is raw, grungy, and lined with dilapidated, unfinished concrete buildings that look like they’ve been sitting idle for a decade.  The amount of plastic litter on the sand broke my heart—the locals just don’t seem to prioritize keeping the beaches clean.  There is massive condo development happening along the ocean, but given their current approach to construction, I have my doubts it’ll turn out aesthetically pleasing.  We really like our accommodation in Tamraght,  Riad Dar Haven—it’s a great sanctuary.

Just down the road, we visited a massive souk in Agadir so Barbie could hunt for trinkets and the assorted craft items she loves to collect.  It was awesome watching the locals do their daily shopping.  The produce was incredibly fresh and absurdly cheap.  Back when we were living in Hawaii, we used to visit the local farmers’ markets constantly.  A haul of fresh fruits and veggies that would easily cost $100 in Hawaii cost us about $15 in the Agadir souk.  However, the rest of Agadir didn’t look overly appealing for an overnight stay, so we pushed right on through.

3. Tiznit: 

Tiznit is a real throwback town and a perfect spot to drop in for a night or two to immerse yourself in local Moroccan life.  We rented bicycles and rode through the medina, watching small-town life unfold.  It actually reminded me a lot of our travels through the rural Mekong Delta because we did not spot a single other Western tourist.  The real gem here was our accommodation: Riad Janoub. It’s a gorgeous oasis with a pool right inside the medina.  We took advantage of their home-cooked poolside dinners and the massive “Royal breakfasts” served on the deck each morning.

4. Mirleft Beach & Sidi Ifni: 

When we first pulled into Mirleft Beach—regularly called one of the best beach areas in the country—I wasn’t instantly impressed.  It’s dusty, scruffy, and totally underdeveloped.  But once I accepted that reality and settled in, I completely fell for the place.

Mirleft instantly transported me back to my early 1990s backpacking days in Southeast Asia before rapid commercial development ruined the raw charm of the beaches.  Mirleft has the potential to be a world-class beach hub, but it would take an insane amount of cash to pull off.  Honestly, I hope it never happens.  I want it to keep its wacky, throwback charm.

We stayed at a great spot called Sally’s, perched high on a cliffside overlooking a sweeping, wild beach.  What makes Mirleft so unique is that it’s literally a beach in the middle of the desert—not a view you see every day.  We spent three relaxed nights here just watching the slow pace of life drift by.  We also visited, nearby, Aftas Beach, the famous rock arches at Legzira Beach, and the Spanish-influenced beach town of Sidi Ifni just to the south.

Inland & Atlas Mountain Towns

Ouarzazate:

The primary draw to Ouarzazate is the legendary Kasbah Aït Benhaddou, located about 30 minutes outside of town.  Most tourists with limited time just pass through here for a quick photo-op on their way to the Sahara desert, but since we had time on our side, we stayed a few nights.

The town itself is clean, spacious, and hot as hell—the dry heat instantly reminded me of our days living in Las Vegas.  The entire area looks like a massive, living movie set, which makes sense considering it’s been a mecca for Hollywood filmmakers for decades (hosting everything from Gladiator and Lawrence of Arabia to Game of Thrones).  We stayed in a nice riad just outside a kasbah, but if I could do it over again, I’d ensure the place had a killer pool because the sun is brutal.

We attempted to drive out to the Fint Oasis—a lush green paradise hidden in the desert—but midway through, I completely chickened out.  The road turned into a brutal, unpaved track of rocks and dirt, and I simply didn’t want to risk destroying our piece-of-shit rental car.

Skoura: 

Skoura is a small, dusty town you pass right after Ouarzazate.  At first glance, it doesn’t look like much, but it’s a relaxed, non-touristic alternative to its bigger neighbor.  We checked into L’Ma Lodge, which is a flat-out paradise and an absolute must-stay if you want to unwind from the world.  We hunkered down here for four days, moving between the pool, the hammocks, and the lush green grounds while Barbie happily fed the resident donkey, horse, and goats.

We did venture out of our luxury compound one day to drive 30 minutes north to a tiny Berber village called Toundout, sitting right in the middle of the steaming desert.  Our sole mission was to check out their weekly Thursday souk.  Talk about a trippy experience—we were the only Westerners in the entire market.  The locals stared at us like we had just stepped out of a UFO, exactly like our experiences in rural Burma.  They took a particular liking to Barbie; they honestly couldn’t figure out what she was, with some assuming she belonged to a local Berber tribe but possessed some bizarre Western edge.  It was an incredible, foreign experience and exactly why we love traveling to far-out places.

Dades Gorge & Todgha Gorge:

Thanks to our open-ended timeline, we had the luxury of spending nights in both the Dades and Todgha Gorges. Both are spectacular spots to break up the grueling drive between Marrakech and the Sahara Desert.

If you are pressed for time and have to choose just one, make it the Dades Gorge.  The winding road into the canyon is jaw-dropping, the Berber villages tucked into the rock are incredibly cool, and the scenery is spectacular.  The absolute cherry on top is a stay at Auberge Chez Pierre. Nestled right against the rocky mountains, they offer top-tier Berber hospitality, a beautiful pool overlooking the valley, and an insane six-course gourmet dinner for just $25 a person.

Doug’s Ultimate Route Tip: The perfect desert game plan is booking a couple of nights at Auberge Chez Pierre on your way out to the Sahara, and then spending a couple of nights recovering at L’Ma Lodge in Skoura on your way back toward Marrakech or Fes. Trust me on this one.

Erg Chebbi, Sahara Desert:

When it came to the Sahara Desert, we chose the more popular dunes of Erg Chebbi over the incredibly remote Erg Chigaga.  We did this purely to avoid torturously long driving distances and to ensure we could hit Skoura and the gorges along the way.

We had a cool desert experience because we decided to splurge and stay at the Desert Luxury Camp.  When you’re in the middle of the desert in the dead of summer, you do not want to sweat your balls off, so extra comfort is a mandatory flashpacker play.  This place is a mirage—it’s the only camp with a swimming pool and fully air-conditioned glamping tents (though they can only run the A/C at night).  We did the mandatory three-hour camel ride into the dunes, lounged in hammocks by the pool staring at the infinite stillness of the desert, and listened to an awesome live Berber drum show under a full moon. Total magic.

Fes: 

Fes is the spiritual capital of Morocco, and the city instantly reminded me of Jerusalem.  There is a massive, ongoing debate among travelers over whether Marrakech or Fes is the true king of Morocco.  Before arriving, we heard totally polarizing opinions—usually, if someone loved Marrakech, they hated Fes, and vice versa. vNaturally, we had to visit both to judge for ourselves. Our verdict?  Skip Casablanca entirely (a sentiment echoed by every single traveler we met) and split your time between both Marrakech and Fes.

We spent five nights in our Fes riad, which was the perfect amount of time to truly observe local life inside the ancient Fes el Bali medina.  I am so glad we made the effort to include Fes.  It offers a completely different vibe than Marrakech—it feels much more family-oriented, orderly, civilized, and the locals are way more relaxed.

The ultimate activity here is simply letting yourself get entirely lost in the colorful, maze-like alleys. Outside the old medina walls, the Fes Mellah (the historic Jewish Quarter) is also good for a long wander.  And, of course, you have to visit the 11th-century Chouara Tannery, the city’s largest leather market where cow, sheep, goat, and camel hides are still preserved and dyed in massive stone vessels before being turned into jackets and bags.

Thru the Binocs: Dealing with Hustlers, Creeps, and Scammers

Barbie and I have a massive bank of experience dealing with tourist traps after spending a full year traveling through Southeast Asia, but the larger cities of Marrakech and Fes have their own unique breed of hustlers.  At times, they can be completely relentless.  Most of these guys are miraculously fluent in about five different languages, so you can’t even pretend you don’t understand them.  If you tell them you have zero interest in the junk they’re hawking, their default move is trying to trick you into following them to a “special” spice or carpet shop.

The secret to survival?  You have to locate the “ignore” button in your brain and click it hard.  Too many locals view tourists as walking, talking ATMs, so you constantly need to keep your guard up and watch your ass.  It’s a bit of a shame because it forces you to act like a cold-hearted jerk, which doesn’t feel great when you accidentally snub a random local who actually has good intentions.

Our Official Moroccan Rip-Off Stats

Over seven weeks, we kept a strict tally of the hits we took. Here is how we got taken:

1. The Parking Scam: A parking attendant that can win an olympic medal for bad breath in Essaouira tried to charge us $6 a day instead of the standard $3.  Fortunately, I pitched a massive bitch and miraculously got our money refunded.

2. The Medina Markup: Barbie overpaid by about $10 for a beaded necklace in the Marrakech medina.  Standard tax on jewelry.

3. The Highway Robbery: We got pulled over at a police checkpoint and had to pay off a cop 150 Dirhams ($15 USD).  The guy actually showed me a radar gun that looked like it was manufactured in the 1950s claiming I was going 8 mph over the limit.  You pay the ticket in cash on the spot directly into the officer’s hand, and off you go.  Who knows where that cash actually lands, but it’s just the cost of doing business when driving in Morocco.
   (Update: Got hit up again on the way to Taliouine for another 15 bucks.  It’s fine—I mentally budgeted for four speeding tickets on this trip, so at only two, I’m still under quota!)

4. The Taxi Shysters: Not a single taxi driver in Marrakech was willing to turn on his meter.  Luckily we had our rental car for the rest of the country, but the Marrakech city drivers managed to nick us for about $3 over the going rate before we escaped.

5. The Human Parking Meters: Men wearing neon yellow vests appear out of thin air the second you park on any street, demanding 20 Dirhams (about 20 cents) for the right to park.  I lost track, but I must have paid them at least 10 times during our road trip.  Total damage: $2.

6. The Dusty Lunch: While in Skoura, we made the mistake of trying to find lunch outside our resort after visiting the Berber market. Big mistake. There was absolutely nothing edible in that hot, dusty town.  I finally managed to buy a bag of pistachios from a roadside shack, which I’m positive I overpaid for by about $4.

The Final Verdict

The Negatives

Aside from the aggressive scammers, the medinas are a non-stop assault on your sense of personal space.  Even marching through the crowds wearing a hat and sunglasses while strictly avoiding eye contact, those clever devils will still find a way to get under your skin.  Also, God forbid you have the audacity to snap a photo—five people will instantly materialize out of nowhere demanding money, even if they weren’t even in the frame.

The Positives

The food is absolutely off the charts.  Everything is heavily seasoned with incredible spices and bursting with deep flavor.  Better yet, the prices are ridiculously low—only slightly more expensive than Southeast Asia.  Our gourmet dinners for two averaged between $15 and $30 USD.

Also, Morocco undeniably has the single best oranges on planet earth. Fresh-squeezed orange juice stands are on every corner, serving up massive glasses for $1 to $2.  This isn’t that tart, acidic OJ you get back home; this is the sweetest juice alive.  They even slice the oranges up, dust them with fresh cinnamon, and serve it for dessert.  Incredible.

Oh, and remembering local names is a breeze.  It’s safe to say that 90% of our dealings were with men named Mohammed (with a few Omars thrown in) and women named Fatima.

Barbie and I completely loved our time here.  The only real downside was that our personal Loose Stools Index was trending on the dangerously low end of the scale for the duration of the trip.  But now, we are officially off to the beaches of Southern Spain with a side of city life in Seville.  I fully expect the Stools Index to correct itself once we load up on Tapas and eliminate those heavy clay-pot Tajines.