After a few fun weeks mingling with the Dutch in the Netherlands, we then set off to more tropical climate and onto one of our favorite countries in the world……Thailand. It was a very long flight from Amsterdam to Bangkok, with a stopover in Doha, Qatar. We were fortunate to get to fly on the highly regarded Qatar Airway’s, in their brand new business class ‘Q Suites’. These unique suites, with their lay flat seats, form into a complete attached double bed if you are traveling with a partner. Qatar Airways is considered one of the best airlines in the world, along with Emirites Airlines and Singapore Airlines After our extended stay in Thailand, we will then get to experience the renowned business class service on Singapore Airlines (with a week long stopover in Singapore) on our flight back to the United States.
I have visited Thailand approximately a dozen times. My first visit in 1991 was one of my most memorable overseas experiences. This particular trip to Thailand will always be etched into my mind as it was my first experience to such a foreign and absolute wacky Southeast Asian country. I recall arriving in Bangkok, late at night, after spending a month backpacking up the entire Australian eastern coast from Sydney to Cairns.
To say the least, I was so nervous, yet so excited with this being my first real solo overseas journey at 27 years of age. I held my nose and dove right into that scary feeling. Upon my arrival into Bangkok airport, I met some fellow backpackers and we shared a taxi to the infamous foreign traveler/backpacker ghetto called Khao San Road.
In 1991, Khao San Road was the vintage travel ghetto. Backpackers from all over the world used this area as a base while traveling throughout Southeast Asia. The electric and foreign atmosphere surrounding Khao San Road was unlike anything I had ever experienced. The area was so colorful and just oozed with authenticity. It was the ultimate introduction to overseas travel and I was hooked. Following my initial stay in Bangkok, I headed to the famed southern Thai islands of Phuket and Koh Samui. To say these two islands were a completely different experience to the way they look now is an understatement.
Flash forward 32 years to today’s visit in (2023). We applied for and received a three (3) month tourist visa. Without this visa, American citizens only are granted a 30 day stay upon arrival. With our extended time in the Land of Smiles and following our new ‘slow travel’ philosophy, we elected to really dig in by spending one month in Bangkok and the remainder two months down on the southern Thai islands of Koh Samui and Koh Phangan.
In this post and my next post, I will give my opinion on how I viewed the rapid development of Bangkok and Koh Samui from my initial visit in 1991 to this visit in 2023……32 years later. I had taken numerous other trips to Thailand during this 32 year span, so I am quite able to accurately reflect on the metamorphosis of Thailand.
I have learned from my years traveling that it’s inevitable that every destination goes through significant changes over time. Some in a good way and some in a real shitty way. As I get older, I am thankful to experience first hand the changing landscape of the numerous places I’ve visited.
Thailand is a prime example of this rapid change over the years.
The rapid development of Bangkok over the years has been truly remarkable. Probably more so than any other major city I have visited in the world. I would attribute this to the fact that back in 1991, Thailand was considered a third world country. Bangkok can now be considered a mega city. It has all the wealth and development that comes with any mega city in Southeast Asia. Bangkok is where Thailand’s wealthiest citizens live, and as such, they desire an urban playground filled with restaurants, bars, cafe’s, shopping malls and an efficient transportation system to suit their elevated lifestyle and expectations. It’s also the first stop for most tourists arriving in country, so the Thais need a capital city which is going to impress. People who are impressed, tend to spend more money. So yes, Bangkok is more developed than the rest of the country but the country of Thailand is firmly newly industrialized, rather than third world.
Positives of Bangkok’s Rapid Development –
- Getting around this sprawling city is now so simple. An amazing underground Metro and overground BTS transit system has been built that really simplifies navigating around the city.
- Bangkok has mastered the art of human pampering. Full body massages with every imaginable and unimaginable treatment on offer that would satisfy any King or Queen. These relaxing and euphoric treatments are literally available on every single street in the city at super affordable prices.
- The quality of accommodations has drastically improved with tons of options available. All of the new luxury hotels and modern high rise condos that are sprouting up around the city make staying in Bangkok a pleasure.
- The wide variety of restaurant options are now on par with all the largest cities in the world. The old style of eating from roadside street carts, where it was just a matter of time you would succumb to getting the shits, has been supplanted by amazing sterile gourmet options.
- Huge brand new skyscrapers have sprouted up all over the city with many occupied by new hipster luxury rooftop bars and restaurants.
- Numerous super luxurious malls have sprouted all around the city. All of these malls are equipped with the most incredible food courts I have seen in any country. They are an absolute joy for foodies.
10) Siam Discovery
- Many new day & night markets have sprung up throughout the city. These new markets are so much cleaner than the old grungy roadside markets of the past.
1) Chatuchak Weekend Market
10) Pratunam Market
- The hospital, dental clinics and healthcare system has become so cutting edge that it has lured in many western travelers looking to indulge in medical retreats.
- In the old days, there was a zero tolerance for drug possession. A simple joint would guarantee you a spot in the scariest Thai prison. Flash forward to today, Cannabis shops are literally everywhere and have even supplanted the shit ton of massage shops that previously lined every street. Being straight in Thailand is like an acid trip because of all the cultural differences, but now being able to be legally stoned and simply wandering around baked is definitely a new modern day experience that could never be attained in the old Thailand.
- The city has cleaned up their parks and are now such a pleasant respite from the organized chaos of Bangkok. Finding a nice park with some green space to chill in and get some exercise in this concrete jungle is easy to find.
TOP PARKS –
1) Lumphini Park
2) Benjakitti Park
3) Benchasiri Park
4) Sri Nakhon Park
NEGATIVES OF BANGKOK’S RAPID DEVELOPMENT –
Khaosan Road, in the Banglamphu area, is still vibrant and packed at night with a pumping party atmosphere but the backpackers are now gone. I have so many amazing memories of my backpacking days hanging out on Khao San Rd. in the early 90’s. It was the birthplace of backpacking and was the heart of backpacking in SE Asia. It was such an iconic place during those glory days. Back in the day, Khaosoan Road had everything you needed as a backpacker. Unfortunately, the community, the backpacking vibe, the authenticity is now officially dead. An end of a backpacker era of the old days. This old backpacker enclave (when the Lonely Planet was considered the traveler’s bible) is now so inauthentic. The area, while still fun, is a shade of the glorious past. RIP………Khaosan Road.
Patpong Road, famous in the past for its night market and fun gogo bars and upstairs ping pong girlie shows, lost its unique vibe completely. It was once so much fun and now it basically sucks.
Sukhumvit Road, near the Nana BTS has transformed into a seedy area and any local flavor that was present in the past is now nonexistent. However, the newer part of Sukhumvit as you head further east is the new happening and young hipster area. New upscale neighborhoods have sprouted up where you can experience the newer part of Bangkok and mix with the young thai locals. The BTS SkyTrain stops of Phrom Phong, Thong Lor and Ekhamai are loaded with luxurious high rise condos and amazingly diverse and plentiful restaurant options.
In recent years, there has been a huge rise in Japanese expats to Bangkok. Japanese businesses have contributed a major stake in foreign investment, adding to the development of Bangkok with many Japanese expats opening restaurants. Food is the first thing we crave whenever we go to a new place. Upon our arrival to the Thong Lor / Sukhumvit area, where we stayed, Barbie and I immediately took notice of the abundance of new Japanese restaurants and businesses.
In summary, I feel so fortunate to experience the old Bangkok of 30 years ago and the new Bangkok. I loved both the old version and the new version of Bangkok and found it so interesting seeing this metamorphosis over the years. Barbie on the other hand did enjoy the old Bangkok but the creature comforts of the ‘new’ Bangkok has really won her heart. So much, we can see ourselves living here even though we are not big city fans.
Big Doug & Barbie Drop Out of Society 