Amsterdam / Leiden (Netherlands)

Our 3-Week Dutch Pitstop

After a month-long stay on Madeira Island, we headed back to one of our absolute favorite destinations in Europe: the Netherlands.  On our previous trips to the Netherlands, in addition to the obligatory extended stays in Amsterdam, we’ve settled down for week-long stints in Rotterdam, Utrecht, and Haarlem, with day trips over to Delft and Den Haag.

Our goal this time around was to experience a fresh corner of the country.  After hearing great things from fellow travelers, we gave the university town of Leiden a shot, allocating two weeks there to get a true feel for local life.

Amsterdam: Shoulder Season – Dodging the Summer Madness

Initially, we were going to skip Amsterdam altogether since we’ve been there a half-dozen times. However, the draw of the city is just too strong to pass up.  Barbie and I absolutely love Amsterdam, but over the years, we’ve watched it get increasingly overcrowded.  Overtourism has become a real issue here; at times, the streets take on the appearance of an adult theme park, making daily life tough for the locals.  Recently, the government has rightfully stepped in with proactive measures to stem the unstoppable tide of tourists.

During past ‘peak time’ summer visits, Barbie and I found our own solution to avoid the crowds: staying in alternative Dutch cities that feel like “mini-Amsterdams.”  But since this was late October, we figured the shoulder-season timing would play in our favor.

We pulled the trigger on a week-long Airbnb directly on the scenic Brouwersgracht Canal. Visiting in October was a revelation.  It was infinitely more enjoyable because it actually felt like we were living among locals, rather than the masses of happily stoned tourists who flock here during the peak summer heat.

The only downside to late autumn was missing out on relaxing in the city parks, which we usually love to do.  Instead, we adapted.  We spent our days walking miles and miles, wandering aimlessly along the famed canals, and dropping into our favorite coffeeshops and local eateries to sample the very best Dutch stoner treats.

The Amsterdam Munchie Guide

You can’t properly experience the Dutch coffeeshop culture without a solid food strategy.  Between coffeeshop visits, Barbie and I hit the pavement to track down the best bites in the city.

If you find yourself wandering the canals with a serious case of the munchies, bookmark these spots:

Top Amsterdam Stoner Munchies

• Winkel 43: Hands-down the best Dutch apple pie you will ever have.
• Van Stapele Koekmakerij & Het Koekemannetje: Legendary cookie spots.
• Lanskroon Bakery: Authentic stroopwafels, legendary dutch treat.
• The Pancake Bakery & Pancake House Upstairs: For your quintessential Dutch pancake fix.
• Chocolaterie Pompadour: Get your chocolate fix.
• Fabel Friet & Vlaams Friteshuis Vleminckx: The gold standards for classic thick-cut Dutch fries smothered in sauce.
• Cafe de Klos & Cafe Sonneveld: Go-to spots when you need a massive plate of ribs or heavy meat.
• Thaise Snack Bar: Great ribs with a Southeast Asian twist.
• De Kaaskamer: A cheese lover’s paradise.
• Eetsalon Van Dobben: Traditional Dutch snacks (think croquettes and bitterballen).
• Frens Haringhandel Street Stand: Try traditional raw Dutch herring, fried cod bites, salmon.

Leiden: The Perfect “Mini-Amsterdam”

The beauty of the Netherlands is how simple it is to navigate.  Their train service is incredibly efficient, so after our week in Amsterdam, we hopped on a quick 30-minute ride down to Leiden.

This laid-back, beautiful city instantly became one of our favorite spots in the country.  It is absolutely stunning in the spring, summer, and early fall—though looking at the graying skies, I could see the writing on the wall that winter here is probably best avoided!  It gave us exactly what we wanted: gorgeous canals, vibrant student energy, and a peaceful, local vibe without the crushing crowds.

Moving On to Warmer Pastures in Southeast Asia

Damn, our three weeks in the Netherlands just absolutely flew by.  We munched out, effectively killed a few brain cells, and got some serious exercise along the way.  Walking miles and miles every single day proved once again that these quaint Dutch gems are some of the best walking cities in all of our worldwide travels.

As is always the case, we are sad to leave, but incredibly excited for the next chapter.  We are officially escaping the chilly autumn air of the Netherlands and trading it for warm, tropical beach weather.

Next stop… winter in Thailand!