Madeira Island (Portugal)

Europe’s Best Kept Secret? Our One-Month in Madeira Island

Despite its growing popularity, Madeira Island is a true hidden gem that still manages to remain under the radar for most mainstream travelers.  Before Barbie and I arrived, I asked friends and family if they had ever even heard of this place.  The answer was a resounding, “No.”  Truth be told, the only reason this Portuguese island was on our radar is because we are deeply looped into the traveler grapevine, following a network of travel bloggers on social media.

We allocated one full month to Madeira so we could explore the entirety of the island at our signature relaxed pace.  Upon arrival, seeing how highly developed the island is took me completely by surprise.  Yet, despite its modernization, it still retains a unique, peaceful quietness.

The entire island of Madeira is impressively clean—honestly, on par with Singapore—and the infrastructure is incredibly well-maintained.  The massive road and tunnel system, built by cutting directly through steep mountains branching off in every direction, is a mind-blowing engineering feat. The island has got to have some of the most advanced roadway infrastructure in the world.

Madeira: Hawaii Meets New Zealand

Many people compare Madeira’s natural beauty to the Hawaiian islands because of its dramatic green mountain peaks and deep valleys.  Having lived in Hawaii for a few years, I can tell you that Hawaii’s infrastructure is far inferior to Madeira’s.  However, when it comes to the coastlines, Hawaii  blows Madeira out of the water.

Madeira feels like a hybrid between New Zealand (with its lush, green forest hikes) and Hawaii (with its mountainous landscape and dramatic island vibe).  Strangely, for an island sitting right in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, what it lacks are those classic white sandy beaches we love so much. The beaches here are wild, rocky, and covered in black sand.  They are incredibly unique to check out, but they aren’t ideal for a truly relaxed beach day.

The Flashpacker Verdict: If Madeira had Hawaii-style beaches, Barbie and I could easily see ourselves living on this island long-term.

White-Knuckle Driving: Not for the Faint of Heart

Madeira’s mountainous terrain boasts some serious elevation, and driving around here is not for the faint of heart.  It’s not the traffic that challenges you; it’s the killer incline on the roads that run straight up the mountain hillsides.  It ain’t no joke.  Getting to the island’s renowned hikes requires a white-knuckled drive up extremely steep, curvy roads.

During our ongoing round-the-world journey, I’ve skillfully conquered some hairy driving conditions in countries like Morocco, Turkey, Israel, Italy, and Spain, not to mention driving on the left side of the road throughout our epic road trips in Ireland, New Zealand, and Australia.  Even with all that experience, Madeira’s narrow, vertical mountain roads were a bit of a challenge.

You better be proficient at driving a manual stick-shift, or you will inevitably have some hair-raising experiences.  I’ve driven a stick my entire life, but I found the first day a tad difficult simply because I was getting used to a new clutch in our rental car while navigating the steepest inclines I have ever encountered.

Once I got acquainted with the hills after day one, the driving actually became kind of fun—almost like being inside a video game.  That being said, for inexperienced manual drivers, do yourself a favor and rent an automatic.  A bunch of the top-rated hikes are deep in the interior of the island, requiring sharp driving skills up steep mountain valleys just to reach the trailheads.

A Nature Lover’s Theme Park

Madeira boasts some of the most beautiful hiking trails in the world.  To be exact, there are over 450 different hikes to choose from, making it one of the premier locations in Europe for an active outdoor holiday.  It is a true theme park for nature lovers, offering trails for all fitness levels.

We split our month-long stay into two distinct areas to get a taste of both worlds:

• Funchal (2 Weeks): The active, vibrant, main city hub.
• Calheta (2 Weeks): A sleepy, charming village just 45 minutes west of Funchal.

Flashpacker Tip: If you prefer to be even closer to the major trailheads, a partial stay on the wetter but deeply serene north shore is another good alternative.

Understanding the Trails: Levadas vs. Veredas

The hiking trails here are generally divided into two distinct categories:

1. Levadas: These are incredibly popular walks that consist of maintained paths running alongside man-made irrigation channels.  Walking alongside these flowing springs surrounded by lush nature is a deeply calming experience, and they offer amazing panoramas along the way.
2. Veredas: These are your traditional mountain hiking trails.  They offer jaw-dropping alpine vistas but are often a bit more challenging, featuring steep inclines and rugged terrain.

Top Hikes & Viewpoints

If you’re planning your own outdoor itinerary, these are the spots you cannot miss.

Top Madeira Island Hikes & Walks

• Levada dos Balcões (PR11): An easy, rewarding walk with stellar views.
• Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo: The big one. Incredible, dramatic ridge hiking.
• Achada do Teixeira to Pico Ruivo: A shorter, easier alternative route to reach the island’s highest peak.
• Levada do Caldeirão Verde: A lush, waterfall-heavy classic.
• Levada das 25 Fontes (PR6): Hugely popular trail leading to a wall of natural springs.
• Veredas do Fanal (PR13): The famous, misty ancient laurel forest that feels like a fairytale.
• Levada do Alecrim: A beautiful, water-centric trail perfect for a clear day.
• Miradouro Eira do Serrado: A stunning walk overlooking the dramatic Valley of the Nuns.
• Levada do Moinho to Levada Nova: A fantastic loop trail featuring a path cut directly behind a waterfall.

Chasing the “Miradouro” (Viewpoints)

Madeira is scattered with tons of amazing viewpoints, locally known as Miradouros.  The best part? Many of these viewpoints are exceptionally easy to reach, located right off the main road, while others require a short hike to unlock the ultimate view. Keep your camera ready at every turn!