Siem Reap (Cambodia)

Siem Reap:

Barbie and I just rolled into Siem Reap, our first stop in Cambodia, and the shift in energy was instant.  Compared to the frenetic, hyper-paced evolution of Thailand,  Cambodia breathes a completely different air.  After spending a week here, we’ve deeply appreciated the slow, relaxed lifestyle.  It really begs the question: Is Cambodia the new Thailand?

The Temples of Angkor

The town of Siem Reap in northern Cambodia is the primary gateway to the Angkor Archaeological Park, home to one of the world’s most spectacular human creations—the UNESCO World Heritage-listed temples of Angkor.  It is also, seamlessly, home to a small army of tourists armed with selfie sticks.

If temple ruins are your thing, this entire area is a must-visit.  The park is massive, packed with unique ruins set deep within a dense forest.  The scenery is stunning, even for a self-proclaimed history simpleton and non-temple lover like myself.  Surprisingly, the place put me in a completely relaxed state of mind; I enjoyed it way more than I thought I would.

The real magic of Angkor is the atmosphere.  The only way to truly feel its energy is by sitting still and taking in the sounds and sights of the surrounding wildlife.

A Quick Side Note on Mass Tourism: I’ve read that Angkor Wat is incredibly threatened by over-tourism. Honestly, I’m not surprised. There seem to be zero rules when exploring. I found it wild that tourists are allowed to climb all over ancient, delicate ruins.

Two Days in a Tuk-Tuk with Sokham

When it comes to navigating this massive complex, doing it in a tuk-tuk is absolutely the way to go. It gives you that open-air, motorcycle-riding freedom with the fresh breeze in your face—minus the risk of mangling yourself on a rented scooter.

We hired a local driver named Sokham.  He’s a good dude who spent two full days driving us through our extensive temple exploration.  We hit a ton of them, but a major standout was Ta Prohm.  It’s the temple famously taken over by the jungle, where ancient trees and massive, muscular roots literally grow straight out of the ruins.  Fun fact: the movie Tomb Raider with Angelina Jolie was filmed here (not that I’ve ever actually seen it).

Beating the Heat in Siem Reap

The Angkor temples sit about four miles outside the mellow town of Siem Reap.  The town itself is booming and has become an essential stop for anyone traveling Southeast Asia, yet it manages to keep a vibe that’s totally conducive to chilling.

You’ll need that chill, because the heat and humidity here will straight-up melt your brain and lay you out.  It is hot.  Like, really, really hot.

Fortunately, as a flashpacker, you don’t have to rough it.  After roaming the dusty ruins all day, Siem Reap offers plenty of high-end villas and mid-range luxury spots where you can kick back and float in a pool, or head into town for your obligatory $8 massage.

By night, the town completely comes alive.  Everyone flocks to Pub Street and the surrounding alleys, which are packed with bars, cafes, street markets, and high-energy chaos.  It’s pure fun on tap.

Bring your US Dollars!

One of the most peculiar things about Cambodia is that the US Dollar is king.  Everything in the stores, restaurants, and hotels is priced in USD. Even the ATMs spit out American cash.

They do have their own currency, the Riel, and you use a mix of both.  When you buy something, your change usually comes back as a confusing cocktail of US Dollars and small-denomination Riel.

To make things more difficult, merchants here are absolute sticklers about the quality of the bills.  If a US bill has even a slight tear or too many creases, it’s dead to the world.  No one will take it.

I’ve been trying to unload a slightly tattered $20 bill for the past week with absolutely zero luck.  We have a few more weeks left in Cambodia, and my sole mission for the remainder of this trip is to find a sucker to take this bill.  I will not rest.  It is driving me nuts schlepping this thing around, and I am fully committed to winning this war.

The Hit List

Temples Visited (Before Temple Overload Set In):

• Angkor Wat, Preah Khan, Ta Som, Bayon, Ta Prohm, Pre Rup, Prasat Bei, Ta Nei, and Beng Mealea. (We definitely hit a few others, but I lost track once the ruins blended together).

Where We Ate:

• Haven Training Restaurant: Fantastic food with a great cause.
• Chanrey Tree: Excellent upscale Khmer dining.
• Somaha Restaurant: Great French Food
• Il Forno: For when you need a solid Italian fix.
• The Sugar Palm: Fish Amok
• Khmer Grill: Good bbq
• Amun Bar & Restaurant: upstairs eating
• Morodok Watbo:
• Tell Steakhouse:
• Malis: Higher end tasting
• Olives:
• Embassy Khmer Gastronomy: higher end
• Tevy’s: Good local place and great prices

💩 Loose Stools Index: 5/10

Started off strong, but things slowly went downhill. I’m attributing this dip entirely to the heavy intake of creamy, French-influenced food.

Thru The Binocs: Two Words for You

FISH AMOK.

This is the national dish of Cambodia.  Every restaurant has its own version, but the hands-down winner is at The Sugar Palm in Siem Reap.

There is absolutely no way you are getting this dish prepared properly in its traditional soufflé style back home, so don’t even try.