Ericeira:
A short drive up the coast from Cascais lies a really cool, totally under-the-radar town called Ericeira. To be completely honest, I had never even heard of this place until it was recommended to us by Shaun White’s—aka The Flying Tomato, the Olympic snowboarder—parents, whom we met on Slaughterhouse Beach in Maui.
Barbie and I got to talking with them after discovering they were on a similar round-the-world flashpacking journey. They looked and sounded like absolute, diehard beach bums, and they completely raved about Ericeira. Since Portugal was already on our radar, we took their advice and slotted it into the itinerary. Man, am I glad we did.
While Cascais felt like a sanitized, picture-perfect postcard tailored to wealthy locals where everything was a bit pristine, Ericeira had a much more authentic, grungy edge to it—in the best way possible. The town is built around a younger, rough-around-the-edges surfer crowd, and that surf spirit completely dictates the pace of life. It’s laid-back, unpretentious, and precisely why we fell in love with the place.
[The Coastal Contrast]
Cascais ──> Pristine, sanitized, geared to old money.
Ericeira ──> Raw, younger, authentic surf culture.
We hit town during the off-season, but the weather was still hovering in the comfortable mid-70s. I’m certain this tiny village gets completely slammed during the peak summer months because it’s just so appealing.
Being on the Atlantic side of the country, it gets wild and windy. We loved standing on the edges of the massive cliffs, taking in the out-of-world ocean views while the cool breeze blasted our faces. You know that crisp, clean sensation when you breathe in the air at the peak of a mountain at a ski resort? That’s the exact way I’d describe Ericeira. The ocean air throughout the entire village just smelled unbelievably fresh and refreshing.
The Beach Circuit
When it comes to the sand out here, you’ve got some world-class options:
- Praia de Ribeira d’Ilhas: Known worldwide as a literal “surf mecca.” This is an impressive stretch of coast, and the word on the street is that it boasts the absolute best waves in Portugal. If you love surfing, you’ll love it. If you don’t surf, you’ll love it. If you actively hate beaches, you’ll still love it. Watching the massive flock of surfers bobbing in the water waiting to drop into those killer waves is pure entertainment.
- Praia do Sul: This spectacular beach is where we spent most of our time, mostly because it was conveniently located directly across the street from our Airbnb.
- Foz do Lizandro: Another sweet beach option located about a mile south of town.
Ericeira isn’t just sand and waves; you have the option to drive inland through countryside villages or explore the historic sites over in Mafra. However, Barbie and I elected to be absolute, lazy beach bums. We stayed completely put, hopping between the beaches, chowing down on cheap seafood, and strolling through the narrow, twisting cobblestone streets lined with cool local boutiques and cafes.
Seafood Steals
On the culinary front, fish and seafood are the main events. You just sit down at one of the many cliffside joints and enjoy the unreal scenery while they serve up the daily catch. Where else on earth can you get a massive, perfectly grilled piece of fresh salmon with two side dishes for just 10 euros?
[The Seafood Ledger]
Fresh Fish + 2 Sides ──> €10 (An absolute flashpacker steal)
The Octopus Experiment ──> Skin peeled, zero allergic reactions, 100% delicious.
The tragedy here is that I’m allergic to shellfish, and these restaurants specialize in fresh crabs, clams, and lobsters. However, Barbie ordered the local octopus and convinced me to try a bite, claiming that if you peel the colorful outer skin off, I’d be totally fine. I rolled the dice, gave it a taste, and loved it. I didn’t die, so I’m counting that as a massive win. Maybe I can slowly start widening my seafood horizons beyond standard fish.
And whatever you do, do not leave town without tracking down the traditional cupcakes at a tiny local bakery called Casa Gama. These are a far cry from the heavy frosted cupcakes we get back in the States. Barbie tried to investigate the recipe, but the bakers kept their cards close to their chest. When you break one open, the texture is incredibly spongy, light, and moist. I’m going to make a bold statement here: these tasty little gems are easily on par with Portugal’s famous custard egg tarts (pastéis de nata). Absolutely tremendous.
The Legend of Boris
There is a tiny, tree-lined cobblestone square right in the center of town where the locals congregate on benches to gossip and sip espresso at the cafes. This square is tightly run by a local legend named Boris.
Who is Boris? He is a 100% purebred English Bulldog, and he sits on the pavement literally running the entire show. No bullshit.
Boris is intensely territorial. He absolutely adores humans, but any other dog that dares to even step a single paw into that square has to answer to him. I honestly don’t understand why every single dog in town yields to him; the guy is fat as shit, has heavily bowed legs, drools constantly, and is way too lazy to even stand up. He just sits there on his rump, lets out a low growl, and the other dogs immediately know to step off. It is pure, unadulterated respect.
I’m convinced Boris might be the most loved dog on the planet. Everyone in town knows him by name and stops by to give him a scratch. He was Barbie’s absolute favorite; she smothered him with hugs every single day when we walked into town for her daily dose of grilled octopus.
The locals take Boris seriously, too. He was actually dognapped a while back, and the entire village went into an absolute frenzy scrambling to locate him for days. Luckily, they found him abandoned in an open field. The thieves clearly underestimated the popularity of the dog and realized they couldn’t move him without the entire country coming down on them. Next time you’re in Ericeira, go look for him. He is one bad mamma jamma, but you’ll love him.
UPDATE 2026: While the original Boris sadly passed away, his legacy lives on through his son, Jack, who currently holds court at the shop.
Thru the Binocs: Preparing for the Holy Land
Living in Ericeira was such a unique, unforgettable experience that we spontaneously extended our stay from three days to a full week. We both absolutely loved the tranquility of the sea here and were genuinely sad to pack up our bags.
We are heading back to Lisbon for a quick transition before boarding a flight straight to Israel. Arriving the day before Yom Kippur and staying through Sukkot is going to be a fascinating cultural shift. Being the absolutely awful Hebrew school student that I was growing up, I’ll be honest: I don’t really remember the actual religious meaning of Sukkot.
However, I do distinctly recall that the holiday involves a temporary hut, a giant lemon, and some sort of branch. By the time we fly out of Israel, I promise you I’ll be a certified Sukkot pro—and an absolute heavyweight shawarma pro.
Big Doug & Barbie Drop Out of Society 