Gili Air:
We took a quick 20-minute boat ride over to Gili Air from Gili T. Now, arriving on Gili T was already something special, but pulling up to Gili Air took “special” to an entirely different level. Right off the boat, I knew this place was unique.
It is so much more mellow than Gili T. This is the exact kind of spot where you grab a great bungalow, hunker down for an extended stay, and just let your heartbeat flatline.
Island Cruising (The Scenic Workout)
The vibe here is incredibly relaxed, mostly because there are zero cars allowed on the island. Your only options to get around are horse buggies (known as cidomos) and bicycles. Just like our time on Gili T, Barbie and I rented bikes for our entire stay.
You can walk the entire perimeter of Gili Air along the beaches in about two and a half hours, or bike it in about an hour. The beach runs completely around the coast, which makes for an incredibly scenic workout. Some sections of the path are pure sand, so you have to hop off and walk your bike or ride right on the hard-packed sand by the water. Cruising around is just a cool experience because you get to see the distinct character of each section of the island. Just keep in mind: you’ve got to stay in tune with the tides if you want optimal swimming conditions.
Flashpacking Done Right: Double Thumbs Up for Scallywags
While the island is packed with tons of homestays, guesthouses, and resorts, we decided to aim a bit higher market and stayed at a place called Scallywags. We actually stayed at their properties on both Gili T and Gili Air, and the operation they run is amazing.
It reminded me of a Nikki Beach vibe, but thankfully without the maddening noise and superficial party atmosphere. It’s just a phenomenally well-run business, and they make life incredibly simple for their guests. Scallywags gets a double thumbs up from me.
It might sound like every single place I write about gets a rave review from Big Doug. Because of that, I want to make one thing crystal clear: I will always be brutally honest on this blog. If a place sucks, I’m going to tell you it sucks.
It just hasn’t happened yet. I attribute our high success rate to the fact that I heavily handicap our destinations before we even pack a bag, spending hours reading independent travel blogs. That homework has paid massive dividends so far, helping us completely bypass the crummy spots. I have a feeling we’ll have very few strikeouts on this journey, but believe me, I’ll let you know when we finally bust.
The Final Verdict on the Gilis
In summary, the Gili Islands are incredibly cool. If you’re looking for a comparison, the only other Southeast Asian beach I’ve been to with a similar atmosphere—meaning no cars and a totally laid-back vibe—is Railay Beach in the Krabi province of Thailand. I’ll keep you posted if I discover any others on this trip.
If you’re planning a trip out here, I highly recommend visiting at least two of the three Gili Islands. Each has a completely different energy that every traveler should experience. The craziness of Gili T is great for just a few days, but a longer stint on Gili Air will do your soul wonders. Just make sure to avoid the rainy season, and I’d steer clear of the massive crowds in high season, too.
One last thing: these islands have a distinct Southeast Asian edge to them. They are a far cry from the sterile, manicured resort islands of the Caribbean. There’s a beautiful roughness to them, and honestly, that’s exactly what I find so much more desirable and exciting.
The Gili Air Quick Stats
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Top Restaurants: Classico, Scallywags, The Chill Out, Ruby’s Cafe
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Beaches Visited: 8.
(Tides play a massive factor here. The southeast corner of the island right by Scallywags is the best spot). -
Loose Stools Index: 7
Quite pleased with this rating, though I’m definitely not keeping my hopes up).