Amsterdam (Netherlands)

Amsterdam:

Barbie and I had such a blast during our two-week stint in Amsterdam last year that we did what any self-respecting flashpackers would do: we pulled the trigger on a repeat visit.  We had just finished up our tour through Ireland, and our upcoming flight to Southeast Asia was departing right out of Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport.  So, honestly, how could we not plunk down for a sequel in our favorite city in all of Europe?

Shifting Bases: From Jordaan to the East Side Amsterdam

During our first trip, we elected to rent an Airbnb apartment in the iconic Jordaan area, right off the Prinsengracht canal inside the main Centrum ring.  That neighborhood was perfect—close enough to bike or walk to all the tourist action, but tucked far enough away from the masses to enjoy the quiet peace of the boutique-lined canals.

This time around, we wanted a totally different flavor of local Amsterdam life, so we opted for the up-and-coming Indische Buurt neighborhood in East Amsterdam.

The vibe out east is way more relaxed than the city center, and it’s packed with killer ethnic restaurants.  It was right here that I managed to track down and try my very first authentic Iraqi meal.  Another massive perk of the location was its proximity to Oosterpark, which quickly became one of our favorite green spaces in the city along with Vondelpark, Westerpark, and Sarphatipark.

Future Scouting Report:
Where Big Doug is eyeing for the next go-around...
- Amsterdam West (A few blocks north of Vondelpark)
- De Pijp (Another heavy contender for atmosphere)

On our last trip to Amsterdam, we rented traditional bicycles for the entirety of our stay.  It’s a fantastic way to zip around the city and serves as great exercise, but we realized something: when you’re constantly pedaling at high speed, you actually miss a lot of the hidden action taking place down the side alleys and narrow canals.

Amsterdam is hands-down the most amazing city in the world to explore on foot because there is something wild, beautiful, or historic to see around every single corner.  On this visit, we chose to walk everywhere.  This slower pace enabled us to wander around in a pleasant stupor and leisurely stop at whatever random pubs, parks, or shops caught our eye.

When our feet finally got tired, we took full advantage of the oBike system.  It’s the exact same bike setup we used in Rotterdam.  You don’t have to hunt down a rental shop; you just spot a bike sitting on the sidewalk, scan it with the app on your iPhone, and ride away. High-tech, cheap, and zero hassle. (Update: locals hated this bike system and began tossing the bikes into the canal as they felt the bikes clogged up the streets.  I am not sure if this bike rental system is still available)

Utrecht: The Crowd-Free Amsterdam Miniature

Eventually, we managed to motivate ourselves, get our lazy asses out of town for a day, and take a quick trip east to Utrecht, one of the oldest Dutch cities on the map.

We had already explored the Netherlands’ other two famous smaller towns, Delft and Haarlem, on previous journeys.  We enjoyed that slower, small-town lifestyle so much that we figured a day trip to Utrecht would be well worth the train ticket.

If I have to make an official call on which of these smaller towns takes the crown, Utrecht gets the slight edge over both Haarlem and Delft.  It feels exactly like a miniature version of Amsterdam, but without the suffocating tourist crowds.

[The Big Doug Utrecht Day-Trip Blueprint]
Culture Boat (Morning Kick-start) ──> Griftpark ──> Oudegracht Canal (Waterfront Beers)

We kick-started our morning in town with a mandatory visit to Culture Boat.  Once our heads were right, we wandered over to Griftpark to cool out and play with some of the most incredibly tame, well-groomed goats, lambs, and cows you’ve ever seen at the Kinderboerderij Griftsteede urban farm.  Good stuff, and a lot of laughs.

The historic heart of the city is centered entirely around the Oudegracht, the main canal cutting through town.  What makes Utrecht unique is that the outdoor restaurants are located on a stone wharf level below the street, right alongside the water.  The paths are buzzing with action and  atmosphere—especially if you luck out and catch a sunny summer afternoon like we did.

Thru the Binocs: A Sensible Approach to Getting Baked

There are roughly 180 licensed coffeeshops currently operating in Amsterdam alone, selling marijuana legally to anyone over the age of 18.  The funny thing is, most of these spots really only cater to the tourist crowd; a local told me that the Dutch themselves don’t actually smoke a ton of pot.

The entire Dutch drug policy is rooted in a pretty refreshing philosophy: people should be free to make their own adult decisions about what they put into their bodies, provided they don’t harm anyone else and behave responsibly.  The government here has accepted that marijuana should be treated exactly like alcohol or tobacco use in the United States.  And because of that widespread cultural acceptance, the Netherlands actually boasts one of the lowest marijuana consumption rates in the world among its own citizens.

Talk about a total paradox.  The contrast between Southeast Asia and Amsterdam out here is wild. In certain parts of Asia, they will literally put a shotgun to your head or throw you in a cage for life if you’re caught holding a bit of pot.  Out here in Amsterdam?  Nobody gives a single damn if you are getting baked alongside the canals or relaxing in the public parks.

The smell of premium weed just casually permeates the air as you walk around.  I’ll never forget our previous trip, zipping around the canal loops on our bikes, getting a sudden hit of pungent, skunky ganja every time we coasted past an open coffeeshop door.  This completely relaxed, judgment-free lifestyle just makes me smile.

The Official Big Doug Coffeeshop Checklist

If you’re planning a trip to the capital and want to sample the local greenery, make sure you pay a visit to a few of our personal favorites:

• Smoke Palace (Our neighborhood go-to in the East)  Update: I think unfortunately closed.
• Greenhouse Centrum & Greenhouse Effect
• Abraxas (Great hidden vibe)
• Prix d’Ami (Massive lounge space)
• Dampkring (Classic old-school atmosphere)
• Kashmir, Ibiza, and de Kroon

Our time is officially up in Europe, and we are packing our bags for an extended deep-dive into Japan.  To break up that brutal marathon flight to Tokyo, we are taking a quick detour through Bangkok.